I got up early this morning and reshaped the stem and keel in the area of the bow. The shape now conforms to the plans. Much better. Makes it look more like the real thing too. Compare it to the bow in the first Nov. 14th picture.
I am seriously debating about whether to paint the transom or not. Right now it is teak which would look nice on the model, but the real Breck Marshall has a white transom. I also doubt that any other Crosby catboats had teak transoms. I am not sure what to do about this, but am thinking.
I painted tonight, and the teak transom is gone. It was the right decision. This way the model is a more accurate representation of the real boat.
While waiting for the paint to dry, I experimented with an idea that I had about marking the waterline. I stead of using the traditional waterline marking jig with a pencil or marker on it and walking it around the hull, why not use a laser level to project the waterline onto the hull. As long as the laser is level horizontally, and the boat is level vertically this should work perfectly. I put the laser level ($9.95 on sale at Canadian Tire) onto the waterline marking jig. This allows me to adjust it up and down and tilt it from side to side.
It appears to work great. With the boat clamped in the vice, and the laser clamped at the other end of the bench, This is a robust setup. Tomorrow, if the paint is good enough to be the final coat of white, I will try marking the waterline using this method. I wish I had thought of this for the Arioso C&C 34 model with its two boot stripes and cove stripe!
November 17, 2005 (Thursday)
An exciting dat today.I put another coat of white on the bow area and transom this morning. In the evening I carefully marked the endpoints of the waterline of the hull, attached it to the mount,and leveled the mount and the laser I then fiddled with the laser to get it to just touch the two endponts. This projected a perfect waterline on to the hull.
Using nothing but the laser line to guide me, I applied the masking tape directly to the hull without any other marking.
This gives a perfectly straight waterline when viewed from the side.
I added a line of thicker masking tape to compensate for my usual painting blunders, and painted the bottom of the model.
The tape was then removed. Perfect! As good a waterline as anyone has a right to expect.
Because of the extreme shape of the catboat, the waterline adds beautiful detail and interest to the model. If you look really carefully in the pictures below, you can see that the laser is on, and see how closely the painted waterline fits the laser line.
I marked the waterline on the rudder, and painted it and the centreboard.
I then put the first coat of buff paint on the deck.
Tomorrow, more sanding and painting. The end is in sight.
November 18, 2005 (Friday)
The engraver called to say that the plaque that I ordered for this model is done and can be picked up. I will get it on Monday.
November 19, 2005 (Saturday)
This morning I put another (perhaps final) coat of paint on the deck and bottom. There is a tiny bit of touch up required on the white topsides. I will do that later today.
Then it is time to lay the model out on the backboard.
After testing a few different positions, I found a centreboard deployment that I liked, and cut it off.
After much careful measuring and placement, I screwed the hull to the backboard, and glued down the foils.
The model is basically finished. I will pick up the brass plaque on Monday and attach it. to the backboard.
November 21, 2005 (Monday)
I picked up the plaque today and attached it to the backboard.
Novemeber 29, 2005 (Tuesday)
Dave Percival from Mystic Seaport got back to me with the infomration on displacement and draft that he got from Doug Butler. Now that I have this I will glue a note to the backboard that reads as follows:
Breck Marshall
Reproduction c. 1903 Crosby Catboat
Built by Mystic Seaport Small Boatshop, 1986
Original design by Charles Crosby of Osterville MA.
